Gas, electric, heat pump and solar. And on a property with a pump we check where the relief valve is discharging, because a slow drip there is measured in pumps rather than in litres.
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Every hot water tank has a temperature and pressure relief valve, and it is meant to let go occasionally. A steady drip means it has stopped sealing properly.
On most properties that is wasted water and a modest repair. Annoying, cheap, easily put off for a few months without much consequence.
On a property with a wastewater pump it is a different calculation. That discharge can end up running continuously into the pump well, which means the pump starts and stops far more often than it was designed to. Pumps are rated in starts as much as in hours.
So the cost of a weeping valve here is not the water on the bill. It is the working life of the machine, and it is the sort of thing that quietly takes years off a pump while everybody assumes the drip is trivial.


There is no reason for that unless something is discharging on its own. The hot water relief valve is the first thing to check.
Occasional discharge is normal and healthy. A steady drip means the valve is no longer sealing and needs replacing.
It is a small part and a small job, which is exactly why it gets left alone for years.
Continuous discharge into a pump well means constant cycling, and pumps are rated in starts as much as in hours.
So the real cost is the working life of the pump rather than the water on the bill.
Running more often than it used to, or cycling at times when nobody is using anything.
A pump running at three in the morning in a sleeping house is not a quirk. Something is discharging on its own.
A relief valve responds to pressure as well as temperature, so high incoming pressure works it harder.
If the same valve has been replaced more than once in a few years, measure the pressure before fitting a third one.
A relief drain that has been extended, buried or routed out of sight defeats its purpose, because nobody can see it running.
That is how a weeping valve goes unnoticed for a year, and on a pumped property a year is a lot of cycles.
Type and size decide most changeovers. On a pumped property there is a second question worth asking: what the system discharges, how often, and where that goes. A unit that sheds water regularly is working somebody else's machine.
| System | How it heats | Typical life | What it discharges |
|---|---|---|---|
| Electric storage | An element heats a tank, often overnight on a controlled load tariff | 8 to 12 years | Relief valve occasionally. Continuously if the valve has failed |
| Gas storage | A burner under a tank keeps a stored volume hot | 8 to 12 years | Same relief arrangement, same failure mode |
| Continuous flow | Gas heats water on demand, nothing is stored | 15 to 20 years | Nothing stored, so no tank relief discharge to worry about |
| Heat pump | Moves heat from the air into the tank rather than making it | 10 to 15 years | Relief valve plus condensate, which also has to go somewhere |
| Solar with boost | Roof collectors, with an element or burner covering the gap | 15 to 20 years | Relief discharge, and more of it on a hot day |
A starting point rather than a rule. Storage size is about how much you can draw before it runs out, so what counts is how many people want hot water inside the same hour.
| People in the house | Electric storage | Gas storage | Continuous flow |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 to 2 | 125 to 160 L | 90 to 135 L | 16 L/min |
| 3 to 4 | 250 to 315 L | 135 to 170 L | 20 L/min |
| 5 or more | 315 to 400 L | 170 L or twin | 26 L/min |
| Two bathrooms at once | Size up a step | Size up a step | 26 L/min, no wait |
Fixed price agreed before we start. These are indicative 2026 ranges. On a pumped property we check the relief discharge as part of any hot water visit.
Element, thermostat, anode or relief valve. A relief valve sits at the lower end.
Like for like in the same position, old unit removed and taken away.
Nothing stored, nothing to run out. Needs mains gas at the property.
Before rebate. The efficient option where there is no gas to the property.
Where it goes and whether it is visible. On a pumped property this is not optional.
These are the makes we repair and install. On any visit we will tell you the age of the unit and the specific fault before a replacement is discussed.
We service and replace these systems as an independent licensed plumber. We are not an agent for, or endorsed by, any of these manufacturers.








Two questions that between them shape the whole visit, including what we check that nobody asked us to.

Anode, element, thermostat and relief valve, before anyone suggests a replacement.

Where it goes and whether it is visible, because on a pumped property that is where the expensive failures hide.

Run up to temperature, checked for leaks, and the old unit taken away if it is a changeover.
Have the age of the unit ready when you ring. On anything reasonably recent this is usually a part rather than a tank.
Call 1300 381 569
It matters more here than most places, and the reason is not the water. A temperature and pressure relief valve is meant to release occasionally, and a steady drip means it is no longer sealing. On a conventional property that is wasted water and a small repair. On a property with a sewage or wastewater pump, that discharge can end up running continuously into the pump well, which means the pump cycles far more often than it was ever meant to. Pumps are rated in starts as much as hours, so the cost of ignoring it is not the water, it is the machine.
Usually the pump tells you before the valve does. It runs more often than it used to, or you hear it cycling at times when nobody is using anything. That second one is the giveaway: there is no reason for a pump to run at three in the morning in a house where everyone is asleep unless something is discharging on its own. If that is happening, the relief valve is the first thing worth checking.
Age decides it more than the fault does. Under about eight years a failure is usually a part: an element, a thermostat, the anode, or exactly this relief valve. Past twelve you are spending on a tank whose lining is near the end regardless. In between it depends on what has gone and what the tank looks like inside. We test rather than guess.
Not through scale, which surprises people from harder water areas. Sydney runs soft, so limescale is rarely the cause. What fails is the sacrificial anode, a rod designed to corrode instead of the tank, and once it is used up the tank starts corroding. Replacing it on schedule is cheap and adds years, and hardly anybody does.
It can contribute, and it is worth measuring rather than replacing the valve twice. A relief valve responds to pressure as well as temperature, so a house seeing high incoming pressure will work its valve harder and shorten its life. If the same valve has been replaced more than once in a few years, the pressure is the thing to check before fitting a third.
Somewhere safe and visible, which is the point of it. A drain line that has been extended, buried or connected somewhere out of sight defeats the purpose, because nobody sees that it is running. In a house on a pump, a discharge that has been routed quietly into the wastewater system is exactly how a weeping valve goes unnoticed for a year.
Diagnosing and repairing an element, thermostat, valve or anode is $250 to $650, and a relief valve sits at the lower end of that. Replacing electric storage in the same position is $1,400 to $2,800. Continuous flow is $1,900 to $3,500. A heat pump starts around $3,200 before rebate.
Let us know how old the unit is and whether the property is on a pump. If the pump has been cycling oddly, mention that too, because the two are often the same story.
Parts tested first, the relief discharge traced, and a straight answer on repair or replacement.
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